Thursday, October 22, 2009

"Grape foam injected with walnut milk and covered in powdered Maytag blue cheese"

In case you missed it, there's an American food revolution going on. Professor Jerry Weinberger (pronounced wine burger!), in the City Journal, tells us more.
For the everyman, there was steak (well done) and mashed potatoes and canned peas, fried chicken and mashed potatoes and canned peas, and meatloaf and mashed potatoes and canned peas. Or the newfangled but repulsive TV dinner.
Sure, there were a few notable exceptions, like the Four Seasons in New York and Le Trianon in San Francisco. Opened by JFK’s former chef, René Verdon, Le Trianon offered traditional French haute cuisine (escargot in garlic butter, sautéed sweetbreads, sole meunière, and so on), along with a mostly French wine list that few diners understood. And there was some good regional cooking in the South. But for the most part, food didn’t matter in America, and being a chef was like being a plumber—a perfectly respectable vocation but no road to stardom. American food was pretty simple, on par with Britain’s in its blandness.
These days, American food is far more complicated and infinitely better. The U.S. has revolutionized its culinary culture over the last 40-odd years. No longer is it the developed world’s worst food nation; in fact, it’s perhaps the best. And it’s largely thanks to the (currently disputed) genius of America’s entrepreneurial capitalism.

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